My love affair with etching copper continues as does my search for new ways to transfer the image on to the metal.
You may have seen on my blog
, my idea of using stickers cut on a Silhouette Cameo to mask areas of metal to protect them from the etching chemicals. While this is a great way to create simple bold designs, it doesn’t work so well on something with smaller fiddly details.
The most common way to transfer more complicated designs is by using Press and Peel Paper which is printed using a laser printer, the image peeled off and then ironed on to the metal. This produces a great result, the only down side is the cost. At around £20 GBP for 5 sheets, it’s expensive.
I don’t know about you, but using expensive materials to test ideas (which I do a lot) makes me a little nervous, and usually ends up with me only creating a mess. So having my regular scout around on the internet, I came across using laser transparencies. They’re clear sheets of acetate, the same as used on the old school overhead projectors, but they’re suitable for use at the temperatures needed to print on a laser.
So a quick call to the local stationary shop and 10 minutes later, I had 5 sheets for £1.25… bargain! I had to try it out and see how it worked for me, so here’s my results…
To start, I drew up some designs and printed them on to the transparency.
So far so good! You can see the images here on the transparent sheet laid over white paper. My laser printer is a bit temperamental, but it shot through with no problems.
Next, I got out the iron. I tried at full temperature on my first attempt, which was too hot and started to melt the plastic. So after a couple of tries, I found a medium setting was best. You don’t need anything to cover the transparency, just place the iron on it and check every 10 seconds how it’s going. Be careful, the metal gets very hot!
If you look at the print on an angle, you can see that it changes to a more solid color once it’s stuck to the metal. You might need a few tries and some close looking to get the hang of what to look out for.
Once it’s stuck down, you need to leave it to cool. If you’re as impatient as I am, you can run it under a tap for a second to speed it up.
Peel off the transparency and if it’s worked, virtually all of the toner will be stuck to the metal and the transparency will be pretty much clean.
As you can see here, part of the design missed, but the great thing with this technique is, if it hasn’t completely transferred, you can re-align the design and try again. You do sometimes get a bit of trouble near the edges if they’re slightly higher than the flat part of the sheet through cutting, so just pop it back on and press again with the iron until the whole image is transferred.
And here’s the image after etching with ferric chloride, you can now cut it from the sheet and use in your designs.
I hope you enjoyed reading and that you’ll have a go!
To get you in the mood, here’s a bit of inspiration… some of my favourite designs and components in etched copper.
Thanks for reading!